Black Olive
brings Mediterranean zing to Tewksbury
Several restaurants in recent years have taken up the
space that now houses the Black Olive in Tewksbury. This
newest operation looks to be a keeper.
The Black Olive is in
an L-shaped strip mall on Tewksbury's Main Street,
almost literally across from the club house at the
Tewksbury Country Club. Longtime local residents will
also know the area as the former Tewksbury Airport.
We enjoyed our recent dinner visit, one that had a
distinctive Mediterranean/Middle Eastern flavor.
ATMOSPHERE:
Call it casually upbeat. Seating is at light
wooded chairs and tables with cloths under glass. Soft
colors and high ceilings contribute to the relaxing
ambiance. Small oil lamps and silk flower arrangements
adorn most tables, though they were missing at ours. The
soundtrack to our meal consisted mostly of Bocelli and
Sinatra
SERVICE: Our waitress was a delight. She was efficient
and personable. She made suggestions and took
suggestions and added to the overall pleasure of our
meal without being overbearing. We visited at a slow
time for the restaurant, and I've learned the hard way
over the years that when things are slow, service is
often -- and strangely -- even slower. Not this time.
EXTRAS: A complimentary bread basket and platter of
pitted olives was accompanied by a small dipping bowl
with an addictive mix of oil, garlic, herbs, and just a
dash of a spicy sauce. The oil was super with bread, and
we even drizzled some of it over some of the steamed
mussels for an added treat.
APPETIZERS:
Options include falafel ($6), baba ganouj
($6), and hummus ($6). The half-dozen homemade grape
leaves ($6) were above average. They were tender and
fresh and full of flavor. More than two dozen steamed
mussels ($9) were prepared in white wine, lemon juice,
and garlic, and served in a large bowl. Though some were
a little gritty, they had taste to spare.
PASTAS/ENTREES: Nearly all are served with a house
salad, a sturdy mix of iceberg and romaine lettuces and
assorted vegetables. More than 20 pasta dishes are
available, including eggplant parmesan ($11), seafood fra diavolo ($19), and chicken cacciatore ($13).
The veal piccata ($15) was a generous mix of thin,
tender, veal slices served atop a choice of ziti or
linguine. The pasta was served al dente in a subtle
lemon, white wine, and olive oil sauce accented with
capers. Shrimp scampi ($15) included an agreeable garlic
and lemon sauce and half a dozen succulent, perfectly
done large shrimp.
DESSERTS:
A variety of cakes and pies, along with items
such as tiramisu. We opted for the toasted almond
dessert, a variation of tiramisu served with whipped
cream, that was light and sweet and delightful.
The Bottom Line:
The Black Olive is a welcome addition to local
eateries offering Mediterranean fare.
Service:
Four Stars
Atmosphere:
Three and a Half Stars
Food:
Four Stars
The Black Olive
1866 Main St., Tewksbury
978-640-8883.
Hours: Dinner Tuesday-Thursday and Sunday, 4-8 p.m.;
Friday and Saturday, 4-10 p.m. Breakfast and lunch,
10 a.m.-2 p.m. Closed Monday.
Price range: Appetizers $6-$9; pastas and entreesm
$11-$19;
(c) 2005 The Sun (Lowell, MA). All rights reserved.
Reproduced with the permission of Media NewsGroup,
Inc. by NewsBank, Inc.
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